The All-you-can-drink Cider House

Cider barrels in a sagardotegi.

Cider barrels in a sagardotegi.

It’s curious how countries that have much in common culturally can be poles apart on specific customs or practices. You smugly think that you’re getting on fine and dandy, at one with the people around you, but then, all of a sudden, just when you think you’re settling into life in a foreign country, you’re hit out of the blue by something trivial and unexpected and you once more find yourself with a mild case of culture shock. Take for example cider; in Ireland and across most of the English-speaking world, it is predominantly a summer drink. In my mind cider will always be associated with mid-May’s teasing two-week scorcher leading up to exam time (ruefully known as “exam weather”) when, bunking off study for an afternoon, we would lounge in the shade of UCG’s quadrangle while we shot the breeze and the ice-cubes melted into our pints of Bulmers. In Spain, cider is a winter drink.

Cider from a Basque cider house (sagardotegi).

Cider from a Basque cider house (sagardotegi).

Indeed, cider is essentially a different drink in Spain than in Ireland. The bubbly, clear and amber fluid we have come to call cider back home is but a distant relative of the flat, turbid and brown-green liquid known as “sidra” in Spanish and “sagardoa” in Basque. You see in Spain (and particularly in the Basque region and Asturias, where cider production and drinking have a long tradition) they like their cider seasonal, fresh and unprocessed. The cider they drink would be considered “craft”, “farm-produced”  or “scrumpy” back home (or the rougher stuff “homebrewed!). It’s not filtered or clarified (hence the yeast- and particle-derived turbidity), there’s very little in the way of process control during the fermentation (some of the cider I tried could do with the pH being upped) and it’s not carbonated (explaining its relative flatness compared with a can of Linden Village). Its lack of carbonation explains the way in which cider is drunk in Spain. So that it doesn’t go flat (or oxidize; traditional production methods render it prone to this), it is drunk quickly and in small quantities. Into something like a straight half-pint glass, the cider is poured from as high a distance as the pourer can manage. Hitting the surface of the glass aerates the liquid and renders it pleasantly bubbly for a short spell and this window of bubbliness is all the drinker has to savour the full taste of the cider in his/her glass. Therefore, only a couple of mouthfuls of cider are poured at a time (think of espresso coffee-like quantities). My first reaction upon hearing that cider was drunk in thimblefuls and not in pints was disgusted incredulity. “These crazy Spanish: Are they men or mice?” was a typical thought. Gradually, however I have been won over to the “small and often” side of the argument; skulling a pint of flat and increasingly oxidized alcoholic pea soup is just plain . . . loco!

The old and the new. Barrels of cider.

The old and the new. Barrels of cider.

Not exactly pea soup, because, in spite of its turbidity and strange un-cidery colour, sidra is a lovely drink, scrumptious in fact (if you’ll excuse the pun). It’s more appley and perfumed than the cider I’m used to, is less thin, and has a natural dryness that allows it to be taken with almost any kind of food. It also seems to lack the secondary effects of Irish cider – properties that led to its acquisition of the moniker “lunatic soup” when I was younger.  (Although not having consumed more than three-four pints of sidra in any one session, perhaps the dosage has just been too low to induce cideradelia, as the Frank and Walters once called the altered state of mind brought on by the imbibing of double-figured numbers of pints of cider!)

Get in the hole! Pouring cider from a height.

Get in the hole! Pouring cider from a height.

Last weekend we paid a trip to a cider house (sidrería in Spanish,
sagardotegi in Basque) in the Basque province of Gipuzkoa. These establishments are half restaurant/half bodega (except instead of wine it’s cider), where the eatery is cheek-by-jowl with the giant barrels in which the cider is fermented and (and this is the killer app, as they say in business-speak) the barrels are tapped and access to the wondrous liquid inside is unrestricted! Yes, you understood correctly; cider houses are all-you-can-drink, free-bar kinda places! Obviously this business model would not survive long in Ireland, but in Basque country, where alcohol is used more moderately, people tend not to do the dog. Tipples are certainly had. Merriness and well-being certainly increases as the evening wears on, but last Saturday I didn’t see anyone stretchered out of the place.

Cider house season lasts from mid January to April/May. Even if you’re not a fan of cider, a trip to a cider house is recommended if you like your Spanish or Basque cuisine. We were served high-quality cod (bacalao), cod omelette and steak – pretty standard fare at these places  – and our party was charged around thirty euro per head. Going to a sagardotegi is a fine opportunity to witness Basque culture and hear the language being slurred. You can even join in the txotx – when everyone at a table goes to a barrel for a shot of cider – and appraise people’s pouring techniques (which diminish as the evening wears on). Remember to dress warm though. The temperature gauges on the barrels of our cider house read three degrees Celsius.


About ucronin

Microbiologist, brewer, writer, fan of James Joyce, guitar player and gardener, U. Cronin was born in the county town of Ennis, Co. Clare. He's spent much of his adult years moving country — between Spain and Ireland — and at present he is to be found back in his native town. Author of five novels and working on a sixth, U. is back in the lab and engaging his passion for looking for bugs using very bright lasers. Let's hope it turns out well!
This entry was posted in Being Irish Abroad, Food and Drink, Spain, Tourism Spain, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

6 Responses to The All-you-can-drink Cider House

  1. I enjoyed that sidra-from-a-height when living near San Sebastian in 1978 – a very far cry from the flagons of Bulmers imbibed as a teen in Dublin! Lovely blog. As one expat (Australia) to another, suerte!

  2. I never liked beer. .. I love cider of all types tho! Ours matures in fall, October/November. Most is carbonated. Not like there, tho.
    Btw, just bought some Irish butter, no idea what I’ll use it for, but after your last post, i wanted to try it!

  3. What a wonderful post! You left me hankering for a field trip – not to mention quite desperate for a taste. Wish it were possible to apperate. Ah well, I shall have to live vicariously through your blog. Cheers!

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